Christian Dior Jewellery

Christian Dior opened his fashion house in Paris in 1945 after working alongside Pierre Balmain for Lucian Lelong’s fashion house. His “ New Look “designs quickly elevated his status to that of world-class couturier.

Dior began licensing jewellery in 1948 to accent his popular clothing collections. He was known for showing the same styles of jewellery with sweaters for afternoon wear and, for instance, more formal frocks for evening attire. Ready-to-wear lines of jewellery have been made along with haute couture collections.

Christian Dior Jewellery - History

Early Dior jewellery made in conjunction with Josette Gripoix utilized superior quality glass components, similar to those incorporated in Chanel jewellery designs, for which the House of Gripoix is known. Sevres porcelain was also used in some early designs as were components crafted by the workshop of Robert Goosens. These pieces are often hard to identify with certainty, and many pieces purportedly made with Gripoix glass are indeed not.

Dior jewellery with Germany or Made in Germany as part of the mark (or elsewhere such as on a clasp) indicates the piece was produced by Henkle & Grosse.  Some pieces are marked as such either on the Dior cartouche or on a separate oval plaque. The partnership between Dior and this German jewellery factory lasted for 50 years. Many pieces from the 1950s through the 1970s also have dates as incorporated into the signature.

Schreiner of New York also manufactured one line for Dior in 1949, but these pieces are not marked to indicate this association. During the 1950s, other partnerships resulted in the Mitchel Maer for Dior and Christian Dior by Kramer marks.

A collaboration between the House of Dior and Swarovski in 1955 (some sources say 1956) resulting in the creation of the aurora borealis rhinestone. This type of mesmerisingly iridescent stone was used fervently not only by Dior but by other jewellery brands and is still popular in contemporary jewellery.

Christian Dior died in 1957, but his name was still used on many costume jewellery creations thereafter. Jewellery made under the Dior brand varies widely in style through the 1960s and ‘70s. Some had a punkish influence during Marc Bolan’s tenure as creative director through the ‘80s.

Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano also served as creative directors for the House of Dior in the ‘90s. Their unique styles were reflected in jewellery made during their respective reigns.

Some Dior pieces have house motifs such as bows or lily of the valley incorporated into the designs. Logo brooches spelling out Dior in metal and rhinestones are also popular with collectors.

When they can be accurately identified, collectors relish finding jewellery made in collaboration with Josette Gripoix and Robert Goosens for Dior. They also look for co-branded jewellery from the 1950s marked Christian Dior by Kamer and Mitchel Maer for Dior. 

Most Dior jewellery found today was made in Germany by Henkle & Grosse.  Many of these pieces were dated, making them favourites with collectors. Pieces can be found from the late 1950s through the early 1970s with the date as part of various signature plaque styles.

Jewellery designs made through the decades changed to coordinate with clothing of the day. Collectors covet elaborate rhinestone necklaces from the ‘50s. More tailored brooches and multistrand beaded necklaces were added to Dior lines moving into the 1960s. A wide variety of jewellery ranging from chunky resin necklaces to all-metal designs can be found dating to the 1970s.

More contemporary Dior jewelry is also collected by fashion fans including pieces designed by Marc Bohan from the mid-1970s through 1989 and John Galliano in the 1990s. Tailored Dior jewelry with jewel-tone cabochons from the 1980s is still affordable in comparison to rhinestone pieces from the 1950s. One of the most recognizable pieces by Galliano is a draping necklace style worn by actress Charlize Theron in a J’adore Dior perfume advertisement.

Christian Dior Jewelry - Marks

©Chr.Dior Germany.

19©76 Chr. Dior Germany.

19 Chr.Dior© 60.

Chr. Dior.

Chr.Dior ©1958.

Christian 1960 Dior ©.

Christian Dior.

Christian Dior Boutique ©.

Christian Dior Henkle & Grossé Germany.

Christian Dior by Kramer

Dior©.

Grossé © 19 Chr.Dior© 60. (two oval signature plaques)

Made in Germany for Christian Dior.

Mitchel Maer for Dior.

Jewellery made for the Dior fashion house has been marked in many different ways. Pieces marked Germany or Made in Germany were produced by Henkle & Grossé.  Some are marked with both the design house and manufacturer’s name. Many pieces from the late 1950s through the 1970s also have dates on the signature plaque. During the 1950s, the Mitchel Maer for Dior and Christian Dior by Kramer marks were used to indicate those collaborations. Pieces with a copyright symbol were made after 1955.